Introducing sugar gliders can be extremely simple in some cases, but it can also be a long, slow, and stressful process. There are a few important things to consider when introducing new sugar gliders:
* Intact males that are mature will usually not get along. Males are territorial, and will fight for dominance of their “territory”. Often times brothers, or males that have been introduced during adolescence will be able to be housed together. Sugar gliders use scent to mark their territory, intact males living together will attempt to out scent the other male, resulting in an musky odors no matter how much cage cleaning you do. It is not a 100% guarantee that intact males introduced at a young age will continue to get a long after sexual maturity. Neutering one or both males may be necessary, and should be prepared for.
* Introducing young gliders is easier than introducing older sugar gliders. Older sugar gliders generally have accepted their “colony” situation, even if they have been housed alone.
* Never introduce an adult male to an adolescent female. Adult males may attempt to breed her if she is ready or not. This can result in severe injury of the female or even kill her.
* Sugar gliders of the same age and same size are the most successful introductions. Female to female pairings are good, and male to female pairings are best. If you do not want joeys, neuter the male.
* If you are intending to breed, be weary of trio or colony situation. Often times these result in baby stealing, cannibalization, rejected babies, and injuries. Sometimes they will work out, other times they don’t. Breeding is best done in pairs to avoid unnecessary stress and potential dangers.
* Avoid introducing a new glider to a breeding pair or colony. Colonies are sensitive structures. Introducing a new glider to an established pair is dangerous for all sugar gliders and joeys involved.
* Avoid introducing a female with joeys in pouch to a new male. The new male will be able to sense they are not his in most cases, and destroy the joeys.
* If you are placing a new male with a female that has been with a different male, put the female in a cage by herself for at least a week. Be sure the cage is clean, toys, and pouches are clean. This will allow the other male's scent diminish off of her.
* New sugar gliders should always be quarantined before beginning introductions to your current sugar gliders. Sugar gliders are prone to stress. Even if the sugar glider was healthy when it left the previous owner/breeder, stress lowers their immune system and can make them more susceptible to illness.
How to introduce sugar gliders:
* Introduce sugar gliders in a neutral territory where you have control. A bathroom that has been glider proofed or small tent works great. Be prepared to break up a fight if necessary by having a towel or small blanket on hand. Should a fight incur, toss the blanket on them and gently remove one of the sugar gliders from the situation. If a fight broke out, this means you will have to take the introduction slower.
* Place the sugar gliders cages where they can see and hear each other. Be sure they are not too close that one sugar glider can grab the tail of the other glider. Often times it is recommended to have at least 1 food of clearance between the cages.
* Sugar gliders are scent oriented. Trade pouches, toys, and even cages with the gliders you are trying to introduce. Placing peppermint or vanilla on the sugar gliders to give them the same scent before introducing them may be beneficial. After about a week or so, try again to reintroduce them on neutral territory.
* Don’t overwhelm the cages with toys. You want the sugar gliders to be curious about the “guy next door”.
* If introductions fail the first time around, try again. Each sugar glider is different, and may take a bit longer to accept it’s new friend. In extreme, and rare cases it may take a full month or more to get the sugar gliders to accept each other.
Tips for newly introduced sugar gliders:
* Place the sugar gliders in the same cage for the first time in the morning. This way you will be awake and alert to break-up any possible fighting.
* Don’t overwhelm the cage with toys. You want to watch them interact with each other. Add toys as time goes on, and you are sure they have accepted each other.
* Tiny spats are normal in the beginning. This is how sugar glider decide their “place” within to colony. However, should the sugar gliders “ball-up” one must be removed and slower introductions must be preformed.
* Be sure to offer more than one sleeping place the first few weeks.
* Offer more than one feeding station at least 2-3 days, or until you are sure they are letting each other eat.
To introduce 2 gliders for whatever reasons require just as much, if not more patience sometimes than earning trust and bonding. The most successful methods, are listed below, but keep in mind, that sometimes it just doesn't work out.. Introductions may take some time, do NOT try to rush this. This is NOT for colony breeding purposes.
Below are some worse case scenarios that we have read about, experienced, the risks are high.. 1. A glider may die from fighting with a newly introduced glider.
2. A glider may get seriously injured and require medical treatment.
3. A young female glider will get raped by a sexually mature male
4. A bonded glider doesn't always teach the other to bond, The bonded glider may dump you for it's new mate.
5. A separate cage will be needed, and sometimes separate rooms to insure safety.
6. They may never get along, some gliders love being the only one. Your glider may be set in their ways and resent an intruder.
7. When introducing gliders, keep this thought in mind - You picked their friend for them, how would you react if your parents did that for you, and you didn't like the person?
What is first???
First try to allow them to play together in a neutral room, one where neither has marked, and that neither has claimed to be theirs. Be prepared to separate if fighting does break out. While you try to separate them you will most likely get bitten, and it may be a vicious bite or series of bites. If this happens, you MUST separate them. If you must separate them then you will need to follow some or all of the below methods. If they seem to get along, go to the section called PLACEMENT... Some things you DON'T want to do..
1. Do not just throw them into an existing cage and hope they get along, be sure you have kept them quarantined for 2 weeks prior to any new introductions, or have a though exam done by a vet, including feces.
2. Do NOT allow them to fight it out.
3. Never place a baby in with an adult
4. Never place an immature female with a sexually mature male.
5. Do not think getting another glider will calm an aggressive glider.
6. Never place an un neutered adult male in with another adult male.
There are things you can try, but none come with guarantees..
You already know they will fight, don't try putting them together till you see some signs of them at least tolerating each other, 1 may KILL the other..It is not worth the life of a glider to find out these things can and MAY happen.
Methods
a. place their cages near each other, a foot apart.
b. swap out their beds each night.
c. swap their toys and food bowls as well.
d. place a sheet over both cages so they are locked with each
others scent.
e. putting some vanilla or peppermint extract on each glider before letting
them out to play, that way, they smell the same..
f. place their cages in a neutral room, where neither has been.
g. swap their cages, see how they react to that..
when you hear them clicking to each other, then you know they
are talking..LOL much like a old married couple in therapy..LOL Placement I would highly suggest when placing the two in the same cage for the first time, to put them into a neutral cage, one that neither has "claimed" as theirs. Place 2 new pouches or nest boxes, 2 water containers, and 2 food bowls at different heights, and opposite sides of the cages, so they can sleep , eat and drink separate in case there is one that is more dominate and won't allow the other to eat, drink or sleep. Do not add toys or clutter the cage so if need be, you can get to them easier and they have room to avoid each other. Simply washing the items WILL NOT remove all the scents. A faint smell of the glider that used it will remain even after washing. You don't want either glider to feel superior, they both must feel they are actually invading the others territory.. As time goes on, you can slowly start add toys. ONLY after you KNOW they have accepted each other. Even after the introduction has taken place, please monitor their weight as well as being absolutely postive that one glider is not stopping the other from eating or drinking. If you see one force the other out of the bowl, chase them off, or one gain more weight than the other. PLEASE add a second feeding station on opposite sides of the cage.
* Intact males that are mature will usually not get along. Males are territorial, and will fight for dominance of their “territory”. Often times brothers, or males that have been introduced during adolescence will be able to be housed together. Sugar gliders use scent to mark their territory, intact males living together will attempt to out scent the other male, resulting in an musky odors no matter how much cage cleaning you do. It is not a 100% guarantee that intact males introduced at a young age will continue to get a long after sexual maturity. Neutering one or both males may be necessary, and should be prepared for.
* Introducing young gliders is easier than introducing older sugar gliders. Older sugar gliders generally have accepted their “colony” situation, even if they have been housed alone.
* Never introduce an adult male to an adolescent female. Adult males may attempt to breed her if she is ready or not. This can result in severe injury of the female or even kill her.
* Sugar gliders of the same age and same size are the most successful introductions. Female to female pairings are good, and male to female pairings are best. If you do not want joeys, neuter the male.
* If you are intending to breed, be weary of trio or colony situation. Often times these result in baby stealing, cannibalization, rejected babies, and injuries. Sometimes they will work out, other times they don’t. Breeding is best done in pairs to avoid unnecessary stress and potential dangers.
* Avoid introducing a new glider to a breeding pair or colony. Colonies are sensitive structures. Introducing a new glider to an established pair is dangerous for all sugar gliders and joeys involved.
* Avoid introducing a female with joeys in pouch to a new male. The new male will be able to sense they are not his in most cases, and destroy the joeys.
* If you are placing a new male with a female that has been with a different male, put the female in a cage by herself for at least a week. Be sure the cage is clean, toys, and pouches are clean. This will allow the other male's scent diminish off of her.
* New sugar gliders should always be quarantined before beginning introductions to your current sugar gliders. Sugar gliders are prone to stress. Even if the sugar glider was healthy when it left the previous owner/breeder, stress lowers their immune system and can make them more susceptible to illness.
How to introduce sugar gliders:
* Introduce sugar gliders in a neutral territory where you have control. A bathroom that has been glider proofed or small tent works great. Be prepared to break up a fight if necessary by having a towel or small blanket on hand. Should a fight incur, toss the blanket on them and gently remove one of the sugar gliders from the situation. If a fight broke out, this means you will have to take the introduction slower.
* Place the sugar gliders cages where they can see and hear each other. Be sure they are not too close that one sugar glider can grab the tail of the other glider. Often times it is recommended to have at least 1 food of clearance between the cages.
* Sugar gliders are scent oriented. Trade pouches, toys, and even cages with the gliders you are trying to introduce. Placing peppermint or vanilla on the sugar gliders to give them the same scent before introducing them may be beneficial. After about a week or so, try again to reintroduce them on neutral territory.
* Don’t overwhelm the cages with toys. You want the sugar gliders to be curious about the “guy next door”.
* If introductions fail the first time around, try again. Each sugar glider is different, and may take a bit longer to accept it’s new friend. In extreme, and rare cases it may take a full month or more to get the sugar gliders to accept each other.
Tips for newly introduced sugar gliders:
* Place the sugar gliders in the same cage for the first time in the morning. This way you will be awake and alert to break-up any possible fighting.
* Don’t overwhelm the cage with toys. You want to watch them interact with each other. Add toys as time goes on, and you are sure they have accepted each other.
* Tiny spats are normal in the beginning. This is how sugar glider decide their “place” within to colony. However, should the sugar gliders “ball-up” one must be removed and slower introductions must be preformed.
* Be sure to offer more than one sleeping place the first few weeks.
* Offer more than one feeding station at least 2-3 days, or until you are sure they are letting each other eat.
To introduce 2 gliders for whatever reasons require just as much, if not more patience sometimes than earning trust and bonding. The most successful methods, are listed below, but keep in mind, that sometimes it just doesn't work out.. Introductions may take some time, do NOT try to rush this. This is NOT for colony breeding purposes.
Below are some worse case scenarios that we have read about, experienced, the risks are high.. 1. A glider may die from fighting with a newly introduced glider.
2. A glider may get seriously injured and require medical treatment.
3. A young female glider will get raped by a sexually mature male
4. A bonded glider doesn't always teach the other to bond, The bonded glider may dump you for it's new mate.
5. A separate cage will be needed, and sometimes separate rooms to insure safety.
6. They may never get along, some gliders love being the only one. Your glider may be set in their ways and resent an intruder.
7. When introducing gliders, keep this thought in mind - You picked their friend for them, how would you react if your parents did that for you, and you didn't like the person?
What is first???
First try to allow them to play together in a neutral room, one where neither has marked, and that neither has claimed to be theirs. Be prepared to separate if fighting does break out. While you try to separate them you will most likely get bitten, and it may be a vicious bite or series of bites. If this happens, you MUST separate them. If you must separate them then you will need to follow some or all of the below methods. If they seem to get along, go to the section called PLACEMENT... Some things you DON'T want to do..
1. Do not just throw them into an existing cage and hope they get along, be sure you have kept them quarantined for 2 weeks prior to any new introductions, or have a though exam done by a vet, including feces.
2. Do NOT allow them to fight it out.
3. Never place a baby in with an adult
4. Never place an immature female with a sexually mature male.
5. Do not think getting another glider will calm an aggressive glider.
6. Never place an un neutered adult male in with another adult male.
There are things you can try, but none come with guarantees..
You already know they will fight, don't try putting them together till you see some signs of them at least tolerating each other, 1 may KILL the other..It is not worth the life of a glider to find out these things can and MAY happen.
Methods
a. place their cages near each other, a foot apart.
b. swap out their beds each night.
c. swap their toys and food bowls as well.
d. place a sheet over both cages so they are locked with each
others scent.
e. putting some vanilla or peppermint extract on each glider before letting
them out to play, that way, they smell the same..
f. place their cages in a neutral room, where neither has been.
g. swap their cages, see how they react to that..
when you hear them clicking to each other, then you know they
are talking..LOL much like a old married couple in therapy..LOL Placement I would highly suggest when placing the two in the same cage for the first time, to put them into a neutral cage, one that neither has "claimed" as theirs. Place 2 new pouches or nest boxes, 2 water containers, and 2 food bowls at different heights, and opposite sides of the cages, so they can sleep , eat and drink separate in case there is one that is more dominate and won't allow the other to eat, drink or sleep. Do not add toys or clutter the cage so if need be, you can get to them easier and they have room to avoid each other. Simply washing the items WILL NOT remove all the scents. A faint smell of the glider that used it will remain even after washing. You don't want either glider to feel superior, they both must feel they are actually invading the others territory.. As time goes on, you can slowly start add toys. ONLY after you KNOW they have accepted each other. Even after the introduction has taken place, please monitor their weight as well as being absolutely postive that one glider is not stopping the other from eating or drinking. If you see one force the other out of the bowl, chase them off, or one gain more weight than the other. PLEASE add a second feeding station on opposite sides of the cage.